Franck Muller Vanguard V45SC DT 5N NR N 366

The Franck Muller Vanguard V45 SC DT is the most classical watch in an otherwise flamboyant collection: a straightforward time-and-date watch that lets the case and the rose gold do the talking. It is cased in 18k rose gold, Franck Muller's warm 5N alloy, in the Vanguard's signature tonneau shape at 44mm, curved to sit close to the wrist despite its size.

The dial is grey, with the brand's oversized applied Arabic numerals in rose gold, luminous hands and a minute track around the rim, and the date in an aperture at 6 o'clock. It is the Vanguard stripped of complication, sweep central seconds and a date, so the appeal is proportion, finish and the depth of the gold rather than technical fireworks.

Inside is the self-winding calibre MVT FM 2536-SC-DT, with around 42 hours of power reserve, behind a sapphire crystal, water resistant to 30 metres, on an alligator strap with a rose gold buckle. At Konesseur, every Franck Muller is authenticated and inspected in Dubai before listing, and the UAE's 5% VAT keeps a piece at this level below European retail. See more Franck Muller or the full watches range to compare.

• Reference and model: Franck Muller Vanguard Classical, Ref. V45 SC DT 5N NR, 18k rose gold tonneau case, 44 x 53.7mm
• Dial and functions: grey dial with rose gold applied Arabic numerals and hands, sweep central seconds, date at 6 o'clock
• Movement and build: self-winding calibre MVT FM 2536-SC-DT, ~42h power reserve, sapphire crystal, 30m water resistance, alligator strap with rose gold buckle